How to Kill Wide Blade Grass In Lawn- A Complete Instruction

How to kill wide blade grass is vital to lawn care. Your vineyard is not a mere attachment or bonus feature that you get along with a simple house. Rather it represents a micro version of a green and healthy planet that surrounds you with comfort and good health.

A splendid lawn is not only a work of mere perfection. It needs persistent hard work to conserve it clean and tidy. Even the smallest features of grass can spoil peerless decorum of your lawn. As a result, it becomes important to kill wide blade grass to gain the perfect look of a tidy lawn.

How To Kill Wide Blade Grass

How to kill wide blade grass requires a prolonged procedure to follow. Broad-leaved grasses readily take the privilege of your weakly maintained lawn. Clay loam soil is most often neutral to acidity or alkalinity. Thus, it induces wide blade grass to grow rapidly unless you grow thick turf that hinders such process.

There are two broad types of weed grasses. These are Annual weeds and Perennials. Annual weeds grow during spring and summer; their seeds gradually mature and finally ends in winter. Perennials live throughout the year. It is close enough to your desired lawn grasses.

Indeed Tall fescue, quack grass, orchard grass are all sorts of perennials.

Even fancy grasses that you grow willingly is sort of wide blade if you are intending to cultivate a different variety. For instance, Tall Fescue is used in bluegrass seed mixture although it is a wide blade grass. The intention is to look the lawn greener through it as bluegrass might not work alone.

However, if you mix the seeds in the wrong proportion then as a clumping grass it will awkwardly grow out bluegrass. You certainly have to face haphazardly to eradicate it without harming your precious lawn.

A well-maintained lawn is always less vulnerable to unwanted grass, weeds, and bugs. Even though you might face sort of annoying features like wide blade grass. We are precisely categorizing measures so that you can identify a suitable one for yours.

Preventive Measures

We prefer two types of preventive measures based on timeframe.

  • Short term: Regular gardening procedure to mitigate probable unwanted growth.
  • Long term: Restructuring lawn to eradicate underlying further growth.

Preventive Measures

Most of the time preventive measures are sufficient to avoid hazardous efforts. If these cannot remove wide blade grass then surely you have to follow some sequential remedial measures to get rid of it. These all include digging, uprooting, reseeding,, using herbicides and solution consists of chemicals.

Let us explain these procedures to way you out. Follow these as a guideline to make your task so simple but effective.

Short Term

Make sure you have chosen the right types of grass compatible with the pattern of your lawn. Thickening of grass can be attained by overseeding, sufficient fertilization, plugging or laying sod, irrigation subsequently.

You may find your lawn so appealing in spring. Do not indulge your eyes on those mesmerizing blades of grass, as there might be an underlying threat hiding silently to strike in mid-summer. Crabgrass and other grass with the wide blade usually grow in July unless the initial frost hits them all.

The first measure is to prevent the process of seed germination.

In the pre-blooming stage of azaleas and forsythia, early spring is the appropriate time to apply weed and feed. It works in two ways. Feed and weed will hinder the germinating of wide-bladed grass seeds while added fertilizer will nourish the desired grass in your lawn. Repeat this process every thirty days.

Long Term

In September, use your rake to cut 1/8 inch trail on the surface. Use a broadcast spreader to apply lawn seed. Irrigate your lawn for proper germination of seeds. Trails will assist the seeds to mingle with soil. By winter, they will surely develop grassroots.

Apply adequate fertilizer when you notice the active growth of lawn turf. It will boost up strong roots and make the stem thicker to get lush grass.

Use your garden hose or sprinkler to water the lawn profoundly. Allow the running water for smooth mixing with the soil at least an inch of standing water depth. Daily irrigation induces turfgrasses to be lush and thick that wipes out unnecessary ones.

You have to mow your lawn at the highest frequency level referred to for your grass type. You should mow your grass at 3 to 4 inches in height. It will naturally cover up other spores of grass and terminate the germination. So far, this is the best way to defend unwanted grass.

Cool-season and warm-season grasses differ in mowing frequency. You can remove seed heads by weekly mowing before they become mature. You can also pull up some small plants growing up in a scattered manner.

Remedial Measures

Eradicating wide blade grass is not an easy task. Most of the time you can see the frustrating growth of clumpy stems despite taking sufficient measures.

If you find clumpy weed-like grasses consists of small batches, then it might not cost you a lot. In terms of annual grass, you can see crabgrass or goosegrass most commonly. Usually, it starts growing in late spring and in early summer and dies off each year. These are removable although you have to work so hard.

Perennial grasses are more difficult to eradicate than annual ones. For example, tall fescue can spread widely with its thick texture. Meanwhile, orchard can grow rapidly in upward form and spreads its harsh stems.

If you are seeing those unwanted, clumpy grasses then do not lose heart. Let us clean it following some crucial steps.


In the usual feature, the primary task is to digging dip the inflicted part of the lawn. Careful uprooting is the prior step. Scalping over the affected part and mowing it helps to banish any residue. Reseeding or sod helps sometimes. A renowned horticulturalists from Pennigton recommended two ways to get rid of.

Firstly, dig it approximately 6 inches to uproot and spray the side and bottom of the hole. Then put some compost and potting soil together and sprinkle some seeds over it.


In terms of using herbicides as a pre-emergent time matters the most. The best time to apply is mid-April to the month of May. Pre-emergent does not necessarily hinder the seeds from germinating. Instead, the chemical within the cells from dividing and seed eventually ends up.

Before and after of herbicide application, it is crucial not to overseed as it may ruin all cultivation.

After mid-summer wide blade, grasses become so densely rooted to kill. Sometimes subsequent application of herbicide could not be effective. At such point either you can wait for naturally killing it through the first frost of winter and decide to follow similar steps in the upcoming year in a pre-emptive manner.


Post-emergent herbicides become an option at this stage. You may need to apply these more than once depending on the texture and growth of wide blade grass. There are two types of herbicides. Non-selective can ruin your seeds indiscriminately whereas selective could strike the unwanted ones.

Selective chemicals can eradicate broadleaf grass but crabgrass has narrow leaves. Therefore, you can choose a product that contains active ‘dithiopyr’ as it works on both types.

Herbicides that contain active elements like MSMA or MSDA are effective for many grassy weeds. However, this fails to work on St.Augustinegrass, carpetgrass, or centipedegrass.

Products that are consist of Alligareprodiamine, dithiopyr, tenacity herbicide, pendimethalin, and Pendulum 3.3EC, Quincloracare various useful chemicals to get rid of wide blade grass. Glyphosate is safe and can be applied in round-up considering the spurring period. Similarly, restricted use of herbicide called TFC could be applied.


Read carefully the package instructions before applying it. Pour the mixture in your tank sprayer or in the added bottle with a package. Make sure not to harm yourself by wearing goggles, face shields, and hand gloves.


Break some leaves with a rake to cover the killer all over the plant. Spray the grass and you may need to spray subsequently if roots have grown mature. Repeat the application procedure if necessary.

Do not water your lawn in the next 24 hours and do not mow it for preferably within 48 hours to get better results.


How to kill wide blade grass is not an easy task. It takes months of the experiment, perseverance, hard work, and dedication. Prevention is always better than cure. Therefore, it is rational to defend the growth of unwanted grass initially.

Sufficient irrigation, moderate fertilization, subsequent mowing, and overall following basic lawn care could surely bring out a healthy and tidy lawn.